According to many experts the 2014 red Burgundy vintage is the best since 2010, offering incredible freshness and remarkable balance. During a recent trip to Burgundy (June), the 2014 reds tasted in the region displayed vibrant acidity, refined tannins and an elegant mouthfeel. To confirm and better understand this fine vintage of Burgundy, we decided at Les Conseillers du Vin, to re-evaluate this vintage hoping to confirm the high level of quality and aging potential of this charming (2014) Burgundy vintage.
As usual a group of 16 experienced tasters analyzed seven (7) 2014 red Burgundies plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.
Results: To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2nd place vote and 1pt for a 3rd place vote.
To better understand this vintage it must be mentioned that 2014 was saved by a perfect end to the growing season. Ideal climatic conditions in September and October assured full ripeness with a lower alcohol content and fresh acidity.
There was no clear cut favourite wine in this tasting! Finishing first by a slim margin (1 pt) was the Beaune Bressandes from Rapet Père & Fils (17 pts) followed in second spot (with 16 points) by the Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques from Dupont-Tisserandot and in third the NSG 1er Cru Les 8 Ouvrées from Domaine des Perdrix (15 pts). A slight disappointment was the very pale Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Talmettes from Simon Bize. Usually quite consistent the Bize Savigny only totalled 6 points from the tasting panel. The NSG 1er Cru Aux Thorey from David Duband displayed a very light colour and was obviously thinner with a slight austere finish (9 pts). Curiously only one person identified the mystery wine (congrats Nancy), the 2014 Seresin Pinot Noir from Marlborough (8 pts).
Most of the wines in this tasting showed typical terroir characteristics with finesse and elegance that is usually experienced in cooler fine vintages.
My top three wines were: 1- Beaune Bressandes 1er Cru Rapet Père & Fils, 2- Volnay 1er Cru En Caillerets, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 3- Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Dupont-Tisserandot. See my tasting notes below.
The wines : Order of blind tasting:
1- Volnay 1er Cru En Caillerets, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (Group score: 13 pts)
Very deep colour. La Pousse d’Or is reputed for its very structured wines. The nose, a bit closed, displayed oaky tones with some fruity characteristics. Surprisingly full bodied for Volnay, with firm tannins for lengthy aging (5 to 8 years). For now, a bit austere, try again in 2 to 3 years. My rating: 92/100
2- Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les 8 Ouvrées Aux Perdrix, Domaine des Perdrix (Group score: 15 pts)
Lovely ruby red colour. Typical nose offering spicy red fruit scents. Good extract and structure but remains elegant. Medium weight for NSG with good balance and length. Potential ; 4 to 6 years. My rating: 91/100
3- Beaune 1er Cru Grèves, Domaine Jacques Prieur (Group Score: 12 pts)
Charming nose displaying ripe red fruit scents. Good balance, elegance and freshness. Medium bodied with fine tannins for longevity : 3 to 5 years. Hint of bitterness on the finish. My rating: 90/100
4-Pinot Noir 2014 Marlborough, Seresin, New-Zealand (Group score: 8 pts)
Quite pale (orangy) colour for Marlborough. Candied strawberry fruit nose with a hint of vegetal. Rather simple, light and ready to drink. My rating: 87/100
5- Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Dupont-Tisserandot (Group score: 16 pts)
One of the favourite wines of the tasting, this producer always comes through with a fine effort. Lots of ripe red fruit scents with floral hints. Good extract and structure for lengthy aging : 4 to 6 years. My rating: 91+/00
6- Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Talmettes, Domaine Simon Bize & Fils (Group score : 9 pts)
Slightly disappointing 1er Cru from one of the masters of the Savigny commune. Very pale colour. Discreet nose offering some fruit. Light bodied, in fact a bit thin. Lacks character and typicity. My rating: 87?/100
7- Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey, Domaine David Duband (Group score: 9 pts)
Slightly disappointing wine from a producer that has been getting great press from La Revue du Vin de France. Some fruit on the nose with a slight funky characteristic. Medium bodied with some bitterness on the finish. Don’t think it will improve. Could be a below par bottle. Should be tried again. My rating: 88?/100
8- Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes, Domaine Rapet Père & Fils (Group score: 17 pts)
My favourite and the group’s favourite wine! Deep ruby colour. Superb Pinot nose displaying fruity and floral scents. The complete package : extract, structure (tannins), fresh acidity, balance, elegance and great potential. Cellar 5 to 8 years. My rating: 93/100
Photo: Nick Hamilton