Unfortunately the 1996 Bordeaux vintage was overshadowed by its reputed 95 predecessor. As it often happens in Bordeaux, following a superstar year, a quality vintage can go unnoticed (1962, 2001) ! An outstanding vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon, the sub-regions of Médoc and Pessac-Léognan deliver the best results. But the Libournais should not be forgotten, the merlot dominated wines of St-Émilion and Pomerol seduce with soft texture and complex maturity. On the left bank, more structured wines should continue to improve. A selection of reputed châteaux was chosen to evaluate the high quality and evolution of this excellent Bordeaux vintage.
@ Les Conseillers du Vin, twenty years later, we revisited this underrated vintage that should be at its peak. To verify the evolution, richness and balance of this fine Bordeaux vintage, a group of 16 experienced tasters analysed 7 outstanding Chateaux plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.
Results: Overall the wines faired extremely well! To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2nd place vote and 1pt for a 3rd place vote.
For the majority of the participants two wines stood out: wine # 5 Sociando-Mallet with 29 points and wine # 4 Dunn Howell Mountain Cab with 25 points (the mystery wine). Finishing in third place was Léoville Barton (15 pts) followed closely by Pontet Canet (13 pts), both wines showing good structure, great balance and complexity. The mystery wine, the Dunn Cab, came in second and was correctly identified by seven (7) participants of which two tasters chose it as their favourite wine. The 1996 right bank wines were not as convincing as the outstanding left bank Médoc and Pessac-Léognan wines. Most of the wines served in the tasting displayed good depth with lovely complexity and charming elegance. Still quite alive, a few wines showed they could continue to evolve favourably. The Ferrand-Lartiges from St-Émilion was harsh and disappointing, it seemed a bit over-extracted. My top three wines were: 1-Sociando-Mallet, 2-Pontet Canet, 3-Léoville-Barton.
The wines : Order of blind tasting:
1- Château Gazin, Pomerol (Group score: 0 pt)
The most evolved and easy drinking of the tasting. Was not chosen in the top 3 by any of the participants. Orange rim. Mineral and smoky with some tomato leaf and forest floor scents. Obvious acidity indicates that it might be thinning out. Medium weight and length. Drink up! My rating: 88/100
2- Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan (Group score: 10 pts)
Still deeply coloured. Forrest floor with some berry scents, almost jammy. Sweet ripe flavours. Full and rich, good balance and freshness. Still some extract and structure for further aging (3 to 5 years). Lovely wine. My rating: 91
3- Château Pontet Canet, Pauillac (Group Score: 13 pts)
Good colour. Typical evolved Pauillac nose: graphite, forrest floor with bell pepper and blackberry scents. Very good extract with a solid structure of slightly firm tannins which provide more aging potential (3 to 5 years). My rating: 92+/100
4- Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 Dunn Howell Mountain, Napa Valley (Group score: 25 pts)
Seven (7) of the tasters identified it as the mystery wine…and it came in second! Deeply coloured. Good extract offering typical ripe California flavours. Some dark beery scents with hints of tar and wood. Surprising high acidity with slightly firm tannins. Lots of grip, a bit rustic but remains very satisfying. Frozen in time, don’t think it will improve. My rating: 90/100
5- Château Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Médoc (Group score: 29 pts)
The group’s favourite wine and mine also. In a very elegant but full bodied style. Fresh acidity, good structure with charming ripe flavours and a lingering satisfying finish. Lovely ripe berry scents enhanced by vegetal and mineral terroir characteristics. Still lots of potential, drink now or over the next 5 to 8 years. My rating: 93+/100
6- Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien (Group score : 15 pts)
Léoville Barton is a great example of consistency! Forrest floor scents with lingering aromas of dark berries and bell peppers. Remarkable freshness, elegance, balance and length. The complete package, a lovely wine! Still some potential (2 to 4 years). My rating: 92/100
7- Château Ferrand-Lartigues, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Group score: 1 pt)
Unfortunately this Grand Cru St-Émilion has lost most of its charming fruit. Might have been slightly over extracted resulting in a wine that is showing an out of balance structure. The over extracted tannins shine. A rustic firm finish. My rating: 87?/100
8-Château Calon-Ségur, St-Estèphe (Group score: 3 pts)
An intense bell pepper nose annoyed some of the participants. A fresh, elegant refined Bordeaux Cru Classé. Well balanced, medium weight with some remaining aging potential (3 to 5 years). Did not receive many Top 3 votes, but still a very enjoyable wine. My rating: 91+/100
Nick Hamilton
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