In the last few months, I’ve tasted a significant amount of sparkling wines including many Champagnes. Here are my impressions of the overall quality level of these highly sought (especially during the Holiday period) festive wines presently available at the SAQ.

For the past five years or more, I’ve been singing the same old song over and over : Champagne offers by far the worst quality-price ratio of any wine produced on this planet ! Many sparkling wines from other regions of France and other countries can be of equal if not better quality at much lower prices. It is well known that the region of Champagne is overproducing, unfortunately too many experts refuse to inform the public. Because overly high yields too many Champagnes dissatisfy the fan of good sparkling wine.

All the products recommended in this article have been crafted in the traditionnal Champagne method : a second fermentation in the bottle to produce a lovely creamy froth from tiny bulles.

Since most Champagnes are overpriced, it becomes obvious that seeking out sparkling wines from California, Alsace, Spain or Italy should be your priority during this upcoming Holiday season !

In the last decade California Chardonnay has made great strides ! But white Burgundy remains the benchmark to which all chardonnays are compared. Still the most planted grape in California, today many Golden State appellations craft outstanding chardonnay expressions. In both regions 2012 was a cool climate vintage that produced high acid wines of excellent quality, making this tasting the perfect opportunity to compare these two reputed Chardonnay locations. Should the Californians be riper and more intense, and the Burgundies more elegant and refined ? Think you can identify them ? The wines chosen for this tasting should confirm the high level of quality and aging potential of these two excellent Chardonnay terroirs.

At Les Conseillers du Vin we compared four white Burgundies to four California Chardonnays all from the 2012 vintage. The white Burgundies are reputed for their fresh and elegant style, while the California Chardonnays tend to be richer and fuller. Lately the California style has evolved towards leaner wines with more acidity and freshness. Comparing these two expressions of Chardonnay created a heated debate amongst the tasters present. Which were preferred ?

Results: The participants tasted in the usual blind tasting format a selection of 4 wines from each region to verify the style, balance, richness and aging potential of these great Chardonnays. To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

As mentioned above, the 2012 vintage in both areas, California and Burgundy, was a rather cool growing season that produced lighter wines with fairly high acidity. We can say that it was a fairly even playing field for this comparative tasting. Most of the participants agreed that the overall quality level of these eight wines was quite high.

Pinot Noir is the most planted red varietal in New-Zealand. N-Z produces many styles of Pinot according to terroir locations. The obviously well known Central Otago with its rich and intense style is being challenged by Marlborough’s more delicate and refined Pinots. In recent years Pinot has been planted differently in Marlborough. Vines are now seen on slopes instead of plains, resulting in wines of greater character and finesse. This revamped Marlborough style might be preferred by the Burgundy aficionado!

At Les Conseillers du Vin, we decided to taste a selection of high quality producers that should help us better understand and appreciate the new expressions of New-Zealand Pinot from its many terroirs. A group of 15 experienced tasters analysed 7 N-Z Pinots plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.

Results: To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

It was very close, but three (3) wines stood out, the 2012 Felton Road Block 5 from Central Otago came in first with 19 pts, followed by two wines from Marlborough, Greywacke 2011 with 18pts and 2010 Seresin Sun & Moon with 17 pts in third place.

As reported by Wine Spectator «the 2012 growing season saw ideal weather from start to finish, not too hot and not too cold». The only drawback could be the high yields. If producers limited the vine’s output, the resulting wines can be outstanding. The 2012 California Pinots are lighter than 2010 and 2009 with slightly lower alcohol and firmer tannins. Top producers have concocted wines with great balance, freshness and surprising elegance.

At Les Conseillers du Vin, we decided to taste a selection of wines from reputed producers to verify the aging potential, richness and balance of this excellent but atypical California Pinot vintage. Should we drink up or leave some of these fine Pinots in our cellar for future enjoyment? A group of 15 experienced tasters analysed 7 California Pinots plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.

Results: Overall the wines faired surprisingly well! To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

There was a clear cut winner, the Patz & Hall Hyde vineyard from Carneros dominated with 25 pts, ten (10) more than the second place finisher. The Martinelli Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Valley with 15 pts and the Kistler Sonoma Coast with 13 pts finished second and third.

The first Bordeaux vintage of the new millennium has collectors raving! An outstanding vintage, that saw prices skyrocket. Prices for these high quality 2000 Bordeaux doubled and in some instances tripled when compared to 1999! Experts described them as well endowed classic clarets with excellent extract and a solid structure for long aging. Some have reached their peak and should last another decade or more. Fifteen years later, at Les Conseillers du Vin, we decided to revisit this highly regarded Bordeaux vintage with a selection of reputed châteaux that should confirm the high quality level and evolution of this outstanding vintage.

As usual a group of 16 experienced tasters analysed 7 Bordeaux Crus Classés plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format. At this point we must keep in mind a few important factors: 1-the 2000 growing season offered almost perfect growing conditions. 2-2000 is the best vintage since 1990. 3- The wines offer great aging potential. 4- The first vintage of the new millennium produced outstanding wines that will see prices continue to increase.

Results: Is it time to open all our 2000 Bordeaux or should we leave some for future drinking? One thing is for sure: the top wines will continue to evolve another 20 + years!

To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

Can Napa valley cabs age? American experts are convinced and those of you who have attended the many California Cab tastings at Les Conseillers du Vin are aware that these sun soaked wines can improve with age. Not as rich and jammy as 94 and 97, the 95 Cabs offer great balance, elegance, good structure and that terroir characteristic that is often masked by the abundant fruit of youth. At age 20, some of the fruit has faded letting the terroir speak.

@ Les Conseillers du Vin, we tasted a selection of wines from reputed producers to verify the evolution, richness and balance of this excellent Napa Cab vintage. Should we drink up or leave these fine Cabs in our cellar? A group of 16 experienced tasters analysed 7 California Cabs plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.

Results: Overall the wines faired extremely well! To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

[caption id="attachment_35371" align="alignleft" width="300"] Bottles of wine from a case of 12 bottles of 2000 Chateau Petrus. The case of wine is estimated to fetch HK$320,000-480,000 (US$41,300-61,900). (AP Photo/Kin Cheung)[/caption]

This tasting was a unique opportunity to experience 8 vintages of the reputed, rare and expensive Petrus. As you probably know, with recent inflation of fine wine prices, finding a bottle Pétrus for less than $1000 has become impossible. Recent bottlings go anywhere betwen $1200 and $5000 per bottle. What should we expect from such a «Grand Vin»?

Pétrus is a merlot dominated (95%) wine from the reputed district of Pomerol in the Libournais area of the right bank of Bordeaux.

As a group, the wines in this tasting displayed what should be expected from a highly reputed iconic Bordeaux : consistency ! In fact when paying such high prices for trophy wines, consumers should expect high quality year in- year out, regardless of Mother Nature’s quirkiness. The tasting did confirm the remarkable consistency expected from Petrus, with only two weaker wines, both from extremely difficult years (80 & 87). Unfortunately back in the eighties and early nineties most producers did not benefit from today’s technology and increased knowledge. Today, even in weaker years, Bordeaux producers still manage to produce splendid wines.

@ Les Conseillers du Vin: a group of 16 experienced tasters analysed 8 Petrus wines in the usual blind tasting format. At this point one must remember that wines from the 80’s and early 90’s were not produced with grapes as ripe and concentrated as today’s more recent vintages (2000+). Wines from that era usually offer higher acidity and firmer tannins and tend to be fresher, leaner and more elegant.

Results: To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

Most of the participants agreed that two wines (80 & 87) were showing more evolution. The group’s favourites were 1989 (32 pts), 1993 (30pts) and 1994 (19pts). In a distant fourth spot, the surprising 1995 with only 9 pts. The two clear cut favourites, 1989 (8 votes) and 1993 (7 votes), shared all first place votes except for one, which was awarded to 1994. It was quite surprising to find two secondary vintages (93 and 94) in the top three. At the end of the tasting, following the unveiling of bottles, it became clear to participants that Petrus is a consistent high quality producer. When wines from secondary years such as 1993 and 1994 rival and even surpass efforts from reputed vintages such as 1989 and 1995, consistency is attained. My top three wines were: 1-1993, 2-1994 3-1995 followed closely by 1989. See my tasting notes below.

Curiously the 2000 vintage of Châteauneuf-du-Pape did not impress experts from the outset. But lately it’s being ranked up there with the likes of reputed vintages such as 98-90 and 89. A superb Châteauneuf harvest that will celebrate its fifteenth birthday this year. The Revue du Vin de France described 2000 CDPs as «rich, powerful and generous reds» (19/20).

At Les Conseillers du Vin, we decided to revisit this 15 year old Châteauneuf vintage by tasting a selection of wines from reputed producers to verify the evolution of this excellent southern Rhône vintage that produced elegant, seductive, soft wines that impress with ripe, round flavours. As usual a group of 15 experienced tasters analysed 7 Châteauneuf-du-Papes plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.

Results: Is it time to crack open all remaining bottles of 2000 Châteauneuf or should we leave some for future drinking? To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

Stuck in between two excellent vintages, 1998 and 2001, the 2000 harvest was originally evaluated as a good but not great vintage. With time the 2000 CDPs rounded out and showed great promise. Today most CDPs have reached their peak, but a few top cuvées still show potential to improve with a few more years of cellaring.

Most of the participants agreed that many of the wines were at their peak, and mentioned that they would have preferred them a bit younger. In fact some experts, and you can count me in that group, voice that Grenache dominated CDPs tend to offer more enjoyment younger than older. In other words, 10 years seems to be, for most, the perfect age to enjoy CDPs. Surprisingly the group’s favourite was the mystery wine: Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Domaine Gourt de Mautens (21 pts). This can be explained by the rich bold flavours and powerful tannins of this Jerome Bressy wine from Rasteau. Second and third place went to Clos des Papes (14 pts) and Bois de Boursan Cuvée des Félix (13 pts). These were also my 3 favourite wines but in a different order. See my tasting notes below.

How do 15 years old white Burgundies hold up ?

At Les Conseillers du Vin we compared two excellent white Burgundy vintages that have barely reached maturity. The 99 white Burgundies are reputed for their ripe, rich bold flavours. Barely at their peak they are known to be quite charming. The cooler 2000 harvest, produced wines with more acidity, elegance and great aging potential. Comparing these two lovely white Burgundy vintages created a heated debate. Which of 1999 or 2000 was preferred ?

A great opportunity to compare two very different vintages: the participants tasted in the usual blind tasting format a selection of 4 wines from each vintage to verify the evolution and remaining aging potential of these great white Burgundies.

Results: Five (5) wines performed extremely well! To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.

Many of you are probably aware of the problem of premature oxidation that plagued many white Burgundies from the 90’s and early 2000 vintages. The two vintages (99 & 2000) presented in this tasting were not spared. Many reasons have been attributed for this premature oxidation problem: from harvesting too ripe to not enough sulphites added, or too much batonnage (stirring of the lees) and bad corks. Most probably a combination of reasons! The majority of participants agreed that wines # 2-3 and 5 were oxidised and were disappointments. But the other five (5) wines were quite remarkable, all on their plateau of maturity with a few still offering some aging potential.

According to many experts the 2010 Napa valley cabs are outstanding! A cool and challenging year that luckily ended quite well, producing concentrated long lived cabs that display bold flavours, great structure and amazing balance. This outstanding vintage could be the best of the 21^st century. Adding to the fact that many great California producers have toned down their cabs to produce wines with more finesse, this cooler growing season helps them achieve their goal.

At Les Conseillers du Vin, we decided to taste a selection of wines from reputed producers to verify the aging potential, richness and balance of this excellent Napa Cab vintage. How long should we leave these fine Cabs in our cellar? How much should we pay for high quality Napa Cabs? A group of 15 experienced tasters analysed 7 California Cabs plus a mystery wine in the usual blind tasting format.

Results: Overall the wines faired extremely well! To establish the order of preference of the tasting panel, 3 points were awarded to a first place vote, 2 pts for a 2^nd place vote and 1pt for a 3^rd place vote.